“You could say this book is a declaration of love. On the beach in Malibu I have met such wonderful, extraordinary people with amazing stories to tell. They are truly passionate and many of them have sacrificed a lot to lead the life they want; they have lost their families, their jobs and even their freedom in order to be able to spend their days on the waves. Surfing is addictive – no other drug even comes close. It gets into your blood.”